What were you doing April 2003?
I know. It’s hard for me to remember too. It seems so long, long ago. One thing I obviously was not doing, was reading my (then) latest issue of Food & Wine, at least not cover-to-cover.
For the past 6 years, I have somehow managed to by-pass a brief but captivating article penned by Food & Wine columnist Paula Wolfert, who upon interviewing Chef Carlos Posadas, revealed to readers a most startling revelation: asparagus should be slow-cooked for hours.
Gasp.
Hours?
Posadas, who at the time of publication was chef at Madrid’s El Amparo restaurant, assured Wolfert that his “modern Basque method [of slow-cooking asparagus]” would “please and surprise you.”
While cooks agree it is common practice to steam, grill, simmer or sauté asparagus to produce delicious, ready-to-eat results within minutes, I was infinitely curious why anyone would invest nearly 2 hours of their precious time to slow cook this versatile vegetable. But who am I to argue with Chef Posadas?
Wolfert assured readers that “the liquid in the spears does not create enough steam to turn the flesh mushy,” and “the spears end up perfectly cooked from tip to the base, with exceptionally vivid flavor.” This convinced me that Posadas’ slow-cooked method was worth a try.
Conveniently (or is it coincidentally), asparagus is in season at many farmers’ markets and home gardens throughout the nation. Taking advantage of this seasonal opportunity, I grabbed my husband and we paid a visit to our hometown’s oldest and largest farmers’ market, historic City Market, located in the heart of Kansas City, Missouri.
Finding bunches of beautiful asparagus was a breeze. Buying 2 bunches here and 3 bunches there, plus other, tasty show stoppers (spinach, tomatoes and ramps), we filled our reusable totes with fresh, locally-grown vegetables produced throughout Kansas and Missouri.
USA residents: to find the farmers’ market nearest you, visit Local Harvest.org and enter your city, state or zip code. It is amazing how many markets your search can return, and the interactive map makes locating a market a snap.
UK residents: to find certified farmers’ markets in the UK, visit FarmersMarkets.net and search by map, calender or county.
Whether you are fortunate enough to have asparagus growing in your garden or can find a few, freshly gathered bundles at your local market or vegetable stand, I urge you to give slow-cooked asparagus a try. While not always practical to make, this Basque method is certainly worth a bit of experimentation and will produce results that are always inn style.
Note – The cream sauce included in the following recipe is worth your time and then some.
Enjoy!
Slow-Cooked Asparagus (with Cream Sauce)
(featured on Inn Cuisine, adapted from Food & Wine, April 2003)
- 2 bunches fresh asparagus (about 24 thick asparagus spears or 1 & 1/2 pounds) rinsed and trimmed
- 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
- 1/4 teaspoon granulated sugar
- salt, to taste
- 1 tarragon sprig (may substitute equivalent amount dried tarragon leaves)
- 12 salted capers
- 2 tablespoons mayonnaise
- 2 tablespoons heavy cream
- approximately 2 feet, unbleached parchment paper
Preheat oven to 175 degrees F. Spread parchment paper across a large baking sheet (a jelly roll pan works nicely and will contain any leakage). Arrange asparagus spears in a neat, even pile on center of parchment paper. Drizzle the olive oil over the top; sprinkle with sugar and salt; top with tarragon. Carefully fold parchment paper up and over the top of spears, wrapping downward and tucking ends under themselves to form a tight package. Secure with kitchen string if needed.
Bake asparagus at 175 degrees F for 1 & 1/2 to 2 hours, or until asparagus is tender to the touch when pressed through the parchment. While asparagus is baking, soak capers in water for 1-2 hours; pat dry and coarsely chop. In a small bowl, combine mayonnaise, heavy cream and chopped capers, stirring until thoroughly combined. Season with salt to taste. When asparagus is fully cooked, carefully cut through the parchment wrapper and transfer asparagus to a serving plate or platter. Mix remaining cooking juices from parchment with the mayonnaise-cream sauce, stirring to combine. Pour sauce over warm asparagus and serve at once.
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{ 12 comments… read them below or add one }
OK, now you’ve got me intrigued enough to pick up asparagus this weekend…
Mmmmm…this looks fabulous. This is the perfect meal…who needs meat! This would be wonderful next to your Maple Toast Bundles with Eggs for breakfast!
I have never in my life heard of slow cooking asparagus, but it looks amazing! That’s my husbands favorite veggie, so I will definitely be making this.
And your pictures look great!
Hello Sandie,
Thanks for bringing your blog to my attention. I really enjoyed my first impression. The story. The photos. The idea of doing something so unconventional. Wonderful!
One thing I wanted to mention is that Local Harvest, a great site with lots of information, recently found out that the number of farmers markets listed on its site is significantly less than what the USDA reports (4,600). So, I would also recommend doing a search on: “(Your State) Farmers Markets”.
Cheers!
Rob Smart
(aka Jambutter on Twitter)
Cate – I hope you enjoy making this version as much as I did—so simple, fresh & delicious.
Katie – I like the way you think!
Jenn – Thank you
I hope your husband enjoys this slow-cooked method (especially the cream sauce—it’s divine).
Rob – Thank you visiting and for your thoughtful comment. I’m glad you included this tip for finding local farmers’ markets via a state-by-state search. Such a helpful idea!
I LOVE your blog !!! The pictures, the articles , the recipes…I’m in heaven here!!!
I have never heard of anything like this. 2 Hours?! That’s crazy, but your picture makes it seem very worth it. Thanks for the info!
Counterintuitive, to be sure, but intriguing method of preparing asparagus. I’m curious enough to try it!
This is so interesting Sandie! I’ve never heard of slow cooking asparagus! I guess I assumed it would take on the texture of tinned asaparagus or something. Thanks for the recipe-what is it like?
i think this may be your very first post of something i don’t like! even with the divine cream sauce, i just can’t find asparagus appetizing. it sure is pretty, though.
Bunny – That is a very sweet thing for you to say. Thank you. I’m glad you feel comfortable here. I’ve worked hard to create a food blog where readers feel welcome and entertained, yet leave feeling they’ve learned something new…whether it be an idea, tip, method, recipe or resource. All the better when they feel at-ease enough to leave comments and get involved as well!
Hayley – 2 hours—I know, that’s exactly what I thought when I discovered this recipe in Food & Wine. I wouldn’t trade my everyday way of cooking asparagus for this one, but it sure was fun to try!
Lydia – I think I spoke those exact words when I first learned about this method.
Lorraine – The recipe is very easy to prepare, and in my opinion, turns out similar to steamed asparagus—tasty & evenly cooked. Honestly, I think it’s the cream sauce you prepare using the cooking juices that puts this particular recipe over the top (the flavors are fantastic since the asparagus cooks inside a parchment wrapper).
Grace – Not everyone likes asparagus, I know that. But personally, if I had to choose just one vegetable to live on for the rest of my life—asparagus may well be it. It’s just so darn versatile
Now…if someone could find a way to get rid of the lingering after-effects (if you know what I mean).
Beautiful pics again! Asparagus is a wonderful vegetable and just needs a little bit of flavor to make it taste perfect.
I have never tried slow cooking it and I would have the apprehensions that you had too. Normally for me they get stood up in a pan of water so the tips get steamed and the tougher base gets boiled.